Stepping through the gate of Wat Ram Poeng, also known as the Insight Meditation Center, always feels like coming home. The first time Lucy and I set foot in this beautiful temple on the outskirts of Chiangmai in 2002, we knew from that inner place of knowing that we had found our spiritual home.
It was one of those ‘coincidences’ that we were even there that first time. New to Chiangmai, and not knowing how to navigate the city, we had arranged for a driver to take us up to Wat Doi Suthep. When he realized that we were interested in Buddhism, he asked if we would like to see another temple lower down on the mountain. Sure, we said, not knowing that our lives were about to change.
Later, comparing notes, we both stepped out of the van, and felt a sense of peacefulness and stillness that had previously only been experienced in old growth forests in British Columbia. The whole setting, including an old chedi, Bodhi tree, temple, library, numerous Buddhist statues, monks, nuns and novice quarters all enveloped in ancient trees, was certainly breathtaking but there was more than the scenery. There was a sense of inner calmness that whispered welcome home; that the spiritual path we had both been seeking was right under our feet. How does one describe the absolute knowing that this is where we belong, even though we knew nothing of where we were.
Later we would learn that Wat Ram Poeng was 500 years old, but had been abandoned during the second world war. In 1973, when it became apparent that Phra Ajahn Tong could not accommodate all the students seeking his guidance at the small temple of Wat Muang Mang, right outside the south-east corner of the old city, he re-established Wat Ram Poeng as an active temple and Vipassanna meditation center. Over the next twenty years, not only did thousands of Thai people study under the auspices of the venerable master, but Wat Ram Poeng became an international center for all people to study and experience mindfulness as taught by the Buddha 2,500 years ago. Phra Ajahn Suphan was appointed the new abbot and meditation teacher of Wat Ram Poeng.
More immediately, we noticed foreign and Thai people, all dressed in white, the traditional clothing worn in a temple, sitting still or walking slowly, engulfed in quiet contemplation. Our driver pointed us towards the foreigner’s office, where a monk explained that we were welcome to come here to be instructed in Vipassana meditation in English. We were both ill that year and our visit to Chiangmai was coming to an end, but we promised that we would return the following year for a 10 day retreat.
Which we did. Again and again, we have returned to our spiritual home to learn more of the four foundations of mindfulness that can bring us to a place of inner acceptance, simply by paying attention to what the mind is focusing on in this moment. But as many have said, don’t confuse simple with easy. Days on end of sitting and slow walking; trying to focus our concentration on our breath or footsteps; learning to watch with detached interest the landscape of where the mind tries to escape to; dealing with physical pain and exhaustion; haunted by old memories; relishing moments of bliss; sitting each day with Phra Ajahn Suphan whose compassionate detachment, wisdom and humour helps us to take the next step forward.
In a few days I will return for my annual 10 day retreat. I have no doubt that my mind will greet me at the gate, offering the full gamut of vistas to explore. But this time I will try to follow the advice of my 7-year old grandson, Evan, who when he heard that I was going in for a meditation retreat said: ‘Have fun at the temple, Grandpa Ralph.’ What a grandiose idea; not having to always surround myself in my Buddhist and Jewish suffering. I might just try to add a wee bit of joy to my breath and footsteps.













